The Rich History of Santa Cruz Island: A Journey Through Time
Santa Cruz Island: A 10,000-Year-Old Legacy
Archaeological investigations reveal that Santa Cruz Island, known as Limuw (place of the sea) or Michumash in the Chumash language, has been inhabited for at least 10,000 years. The Chumash people who lived on the island developed a sophisticated society heavily reliant on marine resources, craft specialization, and trade with mainland communities. Notably, the Santa Cruz Island Chumash produced shell beads used as currency, forming a crucial part of the Chumash economy.
European Contact and Early Exploration
The native Chumash had no known contact with Europeans until the 16th and early 17th centuries. The first European to document the island was Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, who, during his exploration of the California coast, observed at least six villages on Santa Cruz Island but did not come ashore. He named the island San Lucas.
In 1602, Sebastián Vizcaíno led another Spanish expedition to California. His map referred to Santa Cruz Island as Isla de Gente Barbuda (island of the bearded people). Between 1602 and 1769, there were no recorded European interactions with the island.
The Arrival of Missionaries
The next significant contact occurred in 1769 when Don Gaspar de Portolà’s land-and-sea expedition reached Santa Cruz Island. Accompanied by Father Juan González Vizcaíno and Father Francisco Palóu, the missionaries were warmly received by the Chumash at the village of Xaxas, where they exchanged fish for strings of beads. Consideration was given to establishing a Catholic mission on the island, but it was ultimately Mission San Buenaventura, founded across the channel in 1782, that began the slow process of religious conversion of the Santa Cruz Chumash. By 1822, the last Chumash residents had relocated to mainland California.
Mexican Rule and the Era of Prisoners Harbor
Following Mexico’s independence from Spain in 1821, the Mexican government sought to strengthen its control over California by sending convicted criminals to various regions. Around 40 prisoners were dispatched to Santa Barbara and subsequently to Santa Cruz Island, where they briefly lived in what is now known as Prisoners Harbor.
Mexican Land Grants and Ownership Disputes
In 1839, Governor Juan Alvarado granted Santa Cruz Island to Captain Andrés Castillero. When California became a state in 1850, the United States government required that previously granted lands be validated by the Board of Land Commissioners. Castillero’s claim, filed in 1852, was eventually confirmed by the U.S. Supreme Court, and the grant was patented to him in 1867. Despite this confirmation, Castillero’s ownership was contested for twelve years, even after he sold the property. During his ownership, Dr. James B. Shaw, an English physician, managed the island and constructed its first ranch house by 1855, possibly introducing the first French Merino sheep to the island.
Ranching Era Begins
In 1857, William Barron, a San Francisco businessman and co-owner of Barron, Forbes & Co., purchased Santa Cruz Island from Castillero, marking the beginning of a new chapter in the island’s history.
Santa Cruz Island’s rich history, from its ancient Chumash roots to European exploration and eventual ranching era, reflects a tapestry of cultural and economic evolution. Each period has left an indelible mark, contributing to the island’s unique legacy.
The Evolution of Santa Cruz Island: From Ranching to Strategic Outpost
From Castillero to Barron: The Early Ranching Years
In 1857, William Barron, a San Francisco businessman and co-owner of Barron, Forbes & Co., purchased Santa Cruz Island from Andrés Castillero. During Barron’s twelve-year ownership, Dr. James B. Shaw managed the island, expanding the sheep ranching operation initiated by Castillero. The Civil War significantly increased the demand for wool, and by 1864, approximately 24,000 sheep grazed the island’s hills and valleys.
Dr. Shaw’s Innovations
By 1869, Shaw’s sheep ranch was well established. He imported cattle, horses, and sheep, and constructed one of the earliest wharves along the California coast at Prisoners Harbor. He built corrals, houses, and expanded the road system. Shaw was the first rancher to ship sheep to San Francisco by steamer, selling some at $30 per animal. When Barron sold the island in 1869 to ten San Francisco investors for $150,000, Shaw moved on to San Francisco and Los Alamos to continue ranching. The gross proceeds from the ranch on Santa Cruz Island at that time were approximately $50,000.
The Caire Era and Legal Disputes
One of the investors, Justinian Caire, a French immigrant and founder of a successful San Francisco hardware business, eventually acquired all the shares of the Santa Cruz Island Company. By the late 1880s, Caire’s sons continued the island’s successful livestock, winemaking, and ranching operations after his death in 1897.
Starting in 1910, extended litigation brought by Caire’s two married daughters led to the division and forced sale of most of the island in 1937. The litigants, led by in-law Ambrose Gherini, retained 6,000 acres on the east end for continued sheep ranching. The majority of the island was sold to Los Angeles oilman Edwin Stanton to cover legal costs.
The Stanton Transformation
Edwin Stanton’s acquisition marked a shift in Santa Cruz Island’s agricultural focus. Initially attempting to continue sheep operations, Stanton soon transitioned to beef production, aligning with the growing beef industry in California. Stanton retained most of the 19th-century structures from the Caire period while adding new buildings, such as Rancho del Norte, to support his cattle ranching activities. Changes included alterations to pasture fencing, corrals, and the addition of an extensive water system for the cattle.
The Gherini Family and the End of Ranching
The Gherini family continued their sheep ranching operations on the east end of Santa Cruz Island until 1984, using Scorpion Ranch as their base. Despite their efforts, production declined during the 1970s and 1980s due to the high costs of operating on a remote island. After Edwin Stanton’s death in 1964, his widow and son Carey re-incorporated the Santa Cruz Island Company, maintaining cattle operations until Carey’s unexpected death in 1987. Per an agreement with The Nature Conservancy, the property was transferred to the non-profit organization, which quickly ended the ranching era on the island.
Diverse Uses and Military Significance
Santa Cruz Island also served as a base for otter hunters, fishermen, and smugglers. The island’s isolated coves, such as Smugglers Cove, provided ideal hideaways for smugglers and bootleggers. Notably, George Nidever recalled hunting otters on Santa Cruz during the winter of 1835-1836, obtaining 60 skins in one season. Fishermen camped on the island, trading their catch with passing boats.
During World War II, the United States military utilized Santa Cruz Island for strategic installations. The island served as an early warning outpost for observing enemy planes and ships. A communications station was installed during the Cold War as part of the Pacific Missile Range Facility, which remains operational, albeit at reduced levels compared to its peak usage in the 1950s and 1960s.
Santa Cruz Island’s rich history and diverse uses reflect its significant role in California’s cultural and natural heritage. From its early ranching days to its strategic military importance, the island continues to be a vital and fascinating part of the Channel Islands.
The Nature Conservancy and National Park Ownership of Santa Cruz Island
The Initial Offer and Stanton’s Acquisition
In 1936, the Caire family, who owned 90% of Santa Cruz Island, offered their portion to the state of California for $750,000, proposing it be used as a state or federal park. However, this proposal did not materialize, and the property was subsequently sold to Los Angeles oilman Edwin Stanton.
Transition to The Nature Conservancy
Edwin Stanton’s son, Carey Stanton, was not interested in selling the island to the government. To prevent a government purchase, he forged an agreement with The Nature Conservancy. Upon Carey’s death in 1987, the property was transferred to the organization. Despite Santa Cruz Island being within the boundaries of Channel Islands National Park, the portion owned by The Nature Conservancy does not belong to the park. In 2000, The Nature Conservancy transferred 8,500 acres of the island to the park.
Current Ownership and Management
Today, Channel Islands National Park owns and operates approximately 24% of Santa Cruz Island. The remaining land is managed by a combination of organizations, including The Nature Conservancy, the University of California Natural Reserve System, and the Santa Cruz Island Foundation. This portion, known as Santa Cruz Island Reserve, supports scientific research and education. The reserve staff provides accommodations for visiting students and researchers, facilitating ongoing studies and educational programs on the island.
Santa Cruz Island’s management reflects a collaborative effort to preserve its unique ecosystems and support scientific inquiry, ensuring its natural and cultural resources are protected for future generations.
20 Facts About California’s Santa Cruz Island
- Largest Channel Island: Santa Cruz Island is the largest of California’s Channel Islands, covering approximately 96 square miles .
- Ancient Inhabitants: Archaeological evidence shows that the island has been inhabited for at least 10,000 years, originally by the Chumash people .
- Chumash Name: The island was known as Limuw (place of the sea) in the Chumash language .
- European Contact: The first recorded European contact was by Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo in 1542, who named the island San Lucas .
- Early Name: In 1602, Sebastián Vizcaíno named the island Isla de Gente Barbuda (island of the bearded people) .
- Spanish Missions: In 1769, Spanish missionaries visited the island, and it was considered for a mission site .
- Mexican Rule: After Mexico’s independence from Spain in 1821, Santa Cruz Island was part of a Mexican land grant in 1839 .
- Ranching History: Sheep ranching began in the mid-19th century and significantly expanded during the Civil War .
- Edwin Stanton: In 1937, Los Angeles oilman Edwin Stanton purchased the majority of the island .
- Nature Conservancy Agreement: Carey’s Stanton’s agreement with The Nature Conservancy led to the organization receiving the island upon his death in 1987 .
- Channel Islands National Park: While part of the island is within the park’s boundaries, not all of it is park property. In 2000, The Nature Conservancy transferred 8,500 acres to the park .
- Diverse Management: The island is managed by The Nature Conservancy, Channel Islands National Park, the University of California Natural Reserve System, and the Santa Cruz Island Foundation .
- Endemic Species: The island is home to endemic species like the Santa Cruz Island fox and the island scrub jay .
- Marine Sanctuary: The surrounding waters are part of the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, protecting marine life .
- Research and Education: The Santa Cruz Island Reserve supports scientific research and provides accommodations for researchers and students .
- Historic Structures: The island retains many 19th-century structures from its ranching period, including Rancho del Norte .
- Smugglers Cove: Historically, the island provided hideouts for smugglers and bootleggers .
- Military Use: During World War II and the Cold War, the island hosted strategic military installations .
- Otter Hunting: In the 19th century, Santa Cruz Island was a base for otter hunters, including George Nidever .
- Visitor Activities: Today, visitors to the island can enjoy hiking, camping, and exploring its rich natural and cultural history .
Sources:
- Channel Islands National Park – NPS
- The Nature Conservancy – Santa Cruz Island
- Santa Cruz Island Foundation – History
- University of California Natural Reserve System
- National Park Service – Chumash History
- Cabrillo National Monument – NPS
- Sebastian Vizcaino Historical Society
- Mission San Buenaventura – History
- Mexican Land Grants – California State Archives
- The Civil War and Wool Industry – Historical Society
- Edwin Stanton Biography – Historical Archives
- The Nature Conservancy – Acquisition History
- Channel Islands National Park – Land Transfers
- Santa Cruz Island Reserve – Management and Operations
- Endemic Species of the Channel Islands – Research Journal
- Santa Cruz Island Fox – Conservation Status
- Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary – NOAA
- UC Natural Reserve System – Santa Cruz Island
- Historical Structures on Santa Cruz Island – Preservation Society
- Smugglers Cove – Historical Accounts
- Military Use of Santa Cruz Island – WWII Archives
- George Nidever – Otter Hunting Records
- Visitor Guide to Santa Cruz Island – National Park Service
- Channel Islands National Park Visitor Activities – NPS
Santa Cruz Island History 